These almost uninhabited islands near Tallinn are full of wildlife – and also plenty of reminders of Estonia’s cold war history
It’s well past midnight on the tiny Estonian island of Suur-Pakri and the sun is just setting, casting a pink hue over the sea. We’re camping close to the water’s edge – and nipping between the intense heat of our improvised sauna and the freezing waters of the Baltic. Kessu, our guide, has rigged up a heavy-duty tent with a hole for a chimney and we’ve collected firewood. With just the stars and six other travellers for company, it’s the perfect end to an energetic day’s sea-kayaking.
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